Rifle Barrel Cleaning Method For Precision. When I started my time of precision shooting during my late teenage years I cleaned a rifle about like most people who don’t give it much thought. One of the many priceless things he taught me was how to clean a barrel in an effective way that really cleaned it, not just played at cleaning. A lot of versions of the same things can be purchased anywhere. But like everything in the fire arms world, quality matters and when it comes to keeping your barrel at its top condition, the things you use need thought and care. Now, other than a decent bench to set everything on, and a way to hold the gun upright to work with, here. If no one has ever told you why you need them I will explain. One piece rods will flex or. A bore guide will keep the rod straight as it enters the barrel. If you do not have the proper guide to keep it straight. This can wear the throat/leade of the barrel where the chamber ends and the rifling begins. This is very bad for your barrel and accuracy. A warped rod will bow and also wear on the barrel further down. The SS rod wearing against the inside of the barrel will do more damage then hundreds of rounds fired. Solvent will degrade glass bedding and get into a wood stock and soften it or destroying any bedding. Due to the corrosive nature of muzzleloading powders you must make cleaning a top priority as soon after shooting as possible. Neglecting this responsibility will certainly result in a ruined barrel. An important thing to. Here's another opinion on what makes the Otis kits so worthy of consideration by comparison and why they deserve more than the two stars some reviewers gave. What exactly do you get in the Otis kits from a feature standpoint? Solvent can also strip any oil and grease on small trigger parts, letting it rust and you not knowing, There are a thousand reasons to use a bore guide but not one good reason not to. Get one for each cartridge so it fits properly. Get quality brushes from some where like Pro. Shot. Walmart brushes are often too small and do not fit tightly. You have to have a brush that fits snug. When it gets loose, toss it out and use another one, They wear out fast when they. Spray the brush off with something like Brake Parts cleaner or starting fluid, Degrease it and get all the solvent off. One, because the solvent will eat it away if. Because if you do not clean it, you recontaminate the bore again with the old gunk in it you just brushed out. Do not stick a filthy brush back into a bore you are trying to clean. A solvent bottle that you can squirt onto the brush. Cleaning Patch Stuck In Barrel Muzzle
It is a pain and a waste to pour out more on the floor then the brush. More importantly, you use the squirt bottle so you DO NOT DIP THE BRUSH IN THE BOTTLE OF SOLVENT. The dirtier it gets, the less it works and you are just putting crud back into the bore and can not tell when you are getting it clean. The Next thing is quality cotton flannel patches. They hold solvent and they will pick up solvent and loose fouling. I buy them in 3. 0 caliber size and use scissors to cut them to sizes smaller. It is important to make sure you use properly fitted patches. If not, they can become stuck or too loose to push out fouling. The jag is the tip you put on the rod to push patches through. You will see the common military style loop as well. Because you don’t push fouling out, get it all over the patch, then pull it right back through the barrel to drop fouling off again where you just spent time trying to get it out. A proper jag and patch will fit tight and push. The loop is very close to useless. Next is the rod, do not skimp on the rod. Make sure the handle turns free and allows the rod to turn and follow the rifling as it travels through the bore. It has to do this to scrub it. I use a carbon rod only. Stainless steel rods will bend and stay bent. This wears the barrel quickly. The carbon will flex and not bend. There are carbon or plastic coated SS rods, but the same thing happens as a SS rod but worse. The coating will wear off where the rod contacts the inside of the barrel and grit till stick in the coating. So, not only does the SS wear the barrel but the grit in the coating will act as a sandpaper. Rods also come in a varying length. I always get one a little longer then I need because of the fact my bore guide might be longer , or maybe I want to clean a long action bolt gun instead of a short action etc. Damage to the crown, or even wear is a fast way to ruin accuracy. I will get a 3. 4 inch rod, not much longer, but enough to make sure will work if any thing changes. In a pinch or you are just starting and do not have a lot to spend, go with a 2. Just be careful. I have the rifle above set up ready to clean. The gun has a bore guide in it for the proper 3. I set the rag under the bore guide at the action tang. This protects any pver spill solvent from getting on the stock and it is handy to have it there to wipe down the rod as I pull it from the bore to clean any fouling off of it. The cleaning process starts like this. I take the solvent I am using, which is usually Butches Bore Shine or TM Solutions. These are the two most effective solvent out there that are not ammonia based. This pushes out any of the big loose fouling and wets the bore. I leave the solvent in for 1. I have the time. This also once again pushes out any loose stuff that may have broken away from the cleaner working. Once this is done I prepare to brush. Some people dry brush. But like my mentor said, you Don’t brush you teeth with no water or tooth paste so why would you try it on a rifle barrel. If it does not produce this mist, add solvent. Since you are brushing, it is OK to add it to the brush at the muzzle and pull it back through. This helps keep as much cleaner in the barrel as you can while brushing. After this, start wet patching again. The patches will come out as black as a crows feather and the next few may be green, or blue or purple and black. As it reacts to the solvent it changes color. It comes off on your patches and shows as many colors of the rainbow. A custom barrel may only need one time. It may be hard, dirty and tiresome work, but if you want a clean barrel that will give you all the accuracy it can without fouling, this is what you have to do. It will also keep fouling from letting rust start in. After doing this cycle, you will come to a time when after brushing the wet patches come out clean or just the color of the solvent. Once the bore is as clean as you are going to get it. Just wipe it out and make sure it is dry. A quality chamber will be reamed tight and true with very little if any carbon fowling coming back into it. Ideally the case will expand and everything is forward of the case mouth. It is not semi auto so the case will stay put until you extract it. You would do it first so that any fouling in the chamber will be pushed into the bore to be cleaned and removed from the process of barrel cleaning. If you feel it get tighter or need more effort in places, this is where copper is a real problem. Probably it is due to some tool marks or a bur or stress from the making of the barrel. After cleaning this way for what seems like a thousand years, I can feel copper fouling almost immediately. When this happens there are a few options, One is Sweets 7. It smells horrible, is super strong and not good for your health at all. A lot of people carry on the myth that Sweets will devour you barrel but this is just not true. The myth started because in the 8. BR shooters would mix Sweets with Shooters Choice. Sweets was strong with ammonia so it got the blame. But you leave it in the barrel longer. Around 3. 0 minutes is normal. The bottle will tell you now more, but that is a left over CYA thing from the story above spreading and scaring people from wanting to use the stuff. It is ok to leave it in longer. It has abrasive compounds in it that are very gritty. Imagine sandpaper in a wet form. It is very messy to work with and very effective. IF you have not used it before, try to find some one who has. You can do some damage with this stuff but you have to try. It will bring out stuff you never believed was in the steel of the barrel. Clean up of the J& B is a must, if you shoot with it in the bore you will have a strong abrasive being rubbed down the bore at high velocity and temp. But you have to get every nook and cranny clean of it. It is not as rough and it an remove copper it its not too bad but is too. I have spent a lot of money and time and work over the years on a lot of stuff looking for a cleaner to cut down on the time spent at the cleaning bench. Hoppes is worthless not pretty much. It is still good but there is stuff that is better and woks faster and takes less elbow grease. It was invented by a BR shooter who developed on his own, sold it himself for a while then Pachmyer got the rights to sell it and market it. I like and use TM Solutions and Butches. For the AR1. 5 I use Butches or TM. If its a precision AR1. It is very good and not toxic. But, there is one that truly works. The M1. 6 family does not need anywhere as much cleaning as some say, just lube it and it will work. The section rods do more harm to the bore then not cleaning it, Unless it wet or got some mud or something that needs out RIGHT NOW. The Bore snake is also something you need to avoid. Yes it is a gimmick that sounds great, but they get stuck. It is a penetrating oil that became popular. Kroil does not clean,it will help you take that rusty bolt off the bathroom door, but that sit. They are more trouble they worth and if used wrong, can damage the bore and promote rusting and pitting. The above way of cleaning is not some revolutionary procedure. It is a simple method used for many years buy match winning BR shooters who need their barrels to be squeaky clean. Some of the barrels those guys used were so well made and lapped that wet patching was all it took to clean them. Copper and fouling would not stick. This was a huge advantage because the less time a rod is in a barrel. You can clean your bore to death. If you use the method I wrote above you can often see a huge reduction if group size if all other things are quality. You can get an old warhorse shooting well again and get control of the fouling in your precision rig. That was quite an edge to have when trying to win.
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